About Masterclass Coaching Academy

Book your place on the next course

MCA courses are currently running at our South West Centre, the Quay in Exeter.

The next course (Module 3, redpointing and competitions) will run in early Spring 2014 and we will announce dates shortly.

Click here to book your place

Syllabus

Summary

Module
No.
 Course title No. of days  Price 
 1. Technique 2 £325
 2. Training 2 £325
 3. Competitions, redpointing & mental performance 2 £325
 4. Coaching methods, supporting theory & injury management 2 £325
  Assessment 2 £350
(Please note that it is advisable, but not essential to attend courses in the prescribed order)

 

Breakdown

Module 1: TECHNIQUE

Day 1.
  • Am:
  • Warm-up
  • General movement
    • Movement drills
  • Specific technique:
    • Slabs & vertical
    • Overhanging walls - the Masterclass Method
    • Roofs
    • Slopers
    • Features & volumes
    • Sit-starts
    • Top-outs & mantles
  • Pm:
  • Leading technique:
    • Equipment
    • Route reading
    • Clipping, resting, pace
    • Dynamic belaying
Day 2.
  • Am:
  • Video Analysis
    • Principles
    • Equipment & set-up
    • Bouldering - common faults
    • Leading - common faults
  • Pm:
    • Analysis session

Module 2: TRAINING

Day 1.
  • Am:
  • Introduction & guiding principles
    • Understanding climbing performance
    • Energy systems
    • Strength & power training methods
    • Principles & structure
    • Bouldering
    • Fingerboard, campus board, system board
    • Antagonists & Supportive exercises
  • Pm:
  • Endurance training
    • Principles & structure
    • Routes
    • Circuits & stick
    • Cardio & cross training
Day 2.
  • Am:
  • Flexibility & supportive conditioning
  • Programme planning
     
  • Pm:
  • Juniors & veterans

Module 3: COMPETITIONS, REDPOINTING & MENTAL PERFORMANCE

Day 1.
  • Am:
  • Competitions
    • Tactics & formats (BRYCS & bouldering comps)
    • Mental prep - bouldering comps
    • Mock bouldering comp
  • Pm:
  • Competitions
    • Tactics & formats (BRYCS & leading comps)
    • Mental prep - leading comps
    • Mock leading comp
Day 2.
  • Am:
  • Redpointing
    • Introduction & ethical definitions
    • Tactics & methodology
    • Mock redpoint
  • Pm:
  • Mental Performance

Module 4: COACHING METHODS, SUPPORTIVE THEORY & INJURY MANAGEMENT

Day 1.
  • Am:
  • Coaching methods
    • Pre-coaching assessment
    • Group size issues
    • Planning & goal setting
    • Teaching methods
  • Pm:
  • Anatomy & Physiology
  • Weight training
  • Health & nutrition
Day 2.
  • Injury Management
    • Prevention
    • Diagnosis & treatment
    • Rehabilitation